Unless your a SMT repairer I'd say that you were screwed but there is a solution.

Which pad did you rip off? You can always solder to the pad that is left and then run a wire from the other side to the next via or solder point on the board.

For lifting a small surface mount LED, capacitor or resistor hold the iron tip against the longest side and flood each pad with a blob of solder, now while bently slide the iron up and down the side to keep all the solder flowing gentle push the part off the pads.

This takes practice, if it's done correctly the part will be left intact I'd advice you to get some old circuit board and practice before you destroy any more boards

I've marked the test point that you'll have to solder your wires to and as I said before get your hands on a dead board and practice a little because if you damage those point your fraked!

there are quite a few different ones. looking at one i have apart here is different. the best bet i can say i s hope its the same. if it isint and you have to take a picture put the board on a table(not held so the camera tries to focus on something in the background) and use macro mode (usually a little flower) since you like being handy and you have a extra dvd/cd player around you can make a macro lens outa it for a cell phone cam and you will be able to take clear pictures of the date on a penny. http://www.diyphotography.net/super-mac … a-dvd-lens

soldering tips. use a really fine sand paper to clean the green stuff off the pads. take old IDE cables from harddrives, cd drives (the stiff cables with 80 wires are best) and use that for your wires for the lights. tin the wire and tin the pad you want to solder then hold the wire on the pad and touch the wire with the iron for a second and it should melt right in. u picked one of the hardest thins to solder to begin with, i can solder 60 wires to a NAND 25 mil pitch (small chips with legs on all sides) but still quiver at the thought of smd.

Thanks! Photo is being uploaded.

Last edited by Shandley (2010-02-09 00:06:49)

Well, I did it! Thanks to all for the help. I have learned so much and I think I will be muuuuch more careful in the future.

The wire you've used is a bit on the thick side lol, but I guess it works. I replied to your other thread.

Shandley wrote:

Oh I know. That's an old hard drive cable. 28 gauge I believe.

The regular 40 conductor IDE cables are yeah, around the 26 to 28, gauge it can vary my MFR.  The UDMA 80 conductor strands, are about .32 (wire wrap type wire), and is what I use for this type of work.  Worked so much better for modchip installs with the XB1, and making jumpers and all sorts of trace repair work.

the 80 strand 32 guage? just pop the connectors off them. where about in canada are you? u might have a CC by you if you live in ontario http://www.canadacomputers.com/locations/

I would prefer to get a roll of the ribbon cable.

I live in BC. I don't think they have a CC by me. I shall look though.

Powerslave wrote:

Shandley wrote:

I would prefer to get a roll of the ribbon cable.

I live in BC. I don't think they have a CC by me. I shall look though.

Go to radio shack, and get a roll of wire-wrap wire then.  They sell it, so there has to be an eletronics place up there where you can get a roll.

no RS in canada. they got bought out by circut city and opened up the source. now they're balls.
shadley you should be able to find a role of 30-32 guage wire in a store

We still have Radio Trash here...  Circuit City was bought out too, all the stores here in the US closed down, and they went to an all on-line store.